Powering down, Porvoo, and Final Looks

After the sojourn to Tallinn, complete with a return home in the fog ( which I must say was mildly rattling- you know you potentially could hit something when the foghorn is on fairly rapid repeat and you can see nothing out the window)- we decided to power down.
The girls were thrilled with the chance to SLEEP IN! After all, they did come straight from finals, and they are not normally morning people by choice. In the morning while they caught up on sleep, we walked into the Esplanade and had a leisurely coffee and bun at the Café Jugend. It is conveniently right by tourist information for those who might travel there, and is also one of the places with the large and lively sidewalk café areas. And on sunny days, the chairs end up all arrayed to face the sun and drink coffees, tea, wine, what have you. Later Cat and I did this and it kind of felt like we were lizards sunning, but happy lizards.
I got a chance to take some more of those pictures that filled my Facebook page.
Then we got the girls to be awake and vertical and took an afternoon bus to Porvoo.
Before saying anything about Porvoo, I must say that Finland has the most amazing transport system and for things like city buses, trains, trams, and ferries, there is a website you can visit where you pick your method of transport, intended destination and time desired and it will tell you all routes and ways, and also where there are disruptions. And getting day, multi day, or week passes is absolutely the way to be. You don't even have to show them all the time, just get on and off. But know that if they ask, you best have in on your person or there is an 80 euro fine.
But really, it says a lot about the Finns that this system exists, and works.
On the other hand, for buses out of the city, there is another website, though equally useful, and we could know the when and where of both local and express buses to and from.
We did learn that city buses and non-city buses leave from different stations. Which we had been told but forgot, but in spite of ourselves we were on the express to Porvoo, on time and on our way.
I suspect however that Michael secretly was a doubter until he finally saw a road sign that said Porvoo. After all, we were not in Helsinki anymore, and there was that possibility I had got it wrong.
You can also travel by ferry to Porvoo, though the trip is longer, and on a cool or breezy day, it will not feel like the best option.
When we arrived at Porvoo, on yet another sunny day, we decided that lunch was in order, and after walking the short blocks from the bus station, we were in the old town of Porvoo in all its glory. Seeing a café that offered "comfort food" we decided to enter Hanna Maria, which was exactly as billed- large and very tasty portions of lightly battered whitefish, pork in a tomato sauce, mashed potatoes, and my favorite- salmon and potato soup!  I later learned that fish soup was the culprit in starting the Great Fire of 1760 started by a cook making fish soup.
In any event, every one thoroughly enjoyed the food, which came with some choices for salad, and fresh bread, and homemade ale or water. And coffee- always, coffee. It is estimated that each Finn consumes 10 litres of coffee per year.
Feeling comforted and nourished and restored, we moved on to walk through the old town of Porvoo, which, like Tallinn, is an exquisite slice of history, as well as a great center for art and handicrafts. We of course went to Porvoo Cathedral which took its present form in the late 1400's. While we there the organist was practicing for an upcoming concert. The cathedral plays an important role in Finnish history since it is here that the Diet of Porvoo met in1809, setting the stage for Finnish autonomy. When the tzar visited, the townspeople had constructed a walkway from his lodging to the cathedral some blocks away so he would not have to suffer the indignity of getting his feet wet!
The house where the tzar stayed also hosted Swedish King Gustav III but apparently he did NOT get a walkway.
Many of the other structures date from the 1700's and serve as galleries, shops and museums
Walking around the stone streets that slope down toward the river, one can appreciate both the view and a look into another time. Along the river are deep red painted shorehouses that were used to store cargo for onloading and offloading from ships. There is also statues dedicated to Albert Edelfelt and J.L. Runeberg. Edelfelt was an artist who went off to Paris to study art, but immortalized views of Porvoo in his paintings. Runeberg was the national poet, and is not only the subject of a statue, but a Day in February, and Runeberg torte, a tasty treat with raspberry filling.
Since we heard that a trip to Brunberg candy was in order, we stopped by only to see the tiny place swarmed with Indian tourists. We did sample the salted licorice only to learn we were not fans. As we left, we connected with Elise, who as schedules would have it was on a work day trip to Porvoo!
After we had a good laugh, she shared that they had just had yummy treats at Café Cabriole. And since it was by the bus station, we headed over for a coffee and treats- caramel apple cake, chocolate pinapple torte with raspberry and vanilla sauces, a chocolate cherry tart and the necessary Runeberg treat! Of course part of the fun was ordering based upon what you thought you might be getting, and each was not only beautiful to look at but definitely worth the recommendation.
After our bus ride home, dinner at home- even on vacation there is a "clean out the fridge" night. And  sauna time!
And then for our last full day, we took in last experiences. we had been walking around our island in one direction, and decided to take the opposite side. Not only were we
 rewarded with great views of the harbor, but also the ice breaker fleet. I was reminded of the sign I had seen as we were motoring through the commercial port area- " We make, and you break- the ice."
We walked through the shops and the necessary pilgrimage to Stockmann, the flagship department store. Mainly window shopping but checking out all the fashion, and buying a Moomin mug and Angry Birds mug for the girls-each Finnish cartoons.
Finally we were treated to an invite for dinner at Elise's place. She met us at the train station and we traveled on one of the new trains to her neighborhood. There are many areas where the buildings of condos and apartments are clustered around walking paths, park areas, shops and transit. As the transit line moved farther out, the development was planned accordingly- what a concept, eh?
We took a short walk from the train stop to Elise's condo, and enjoyed a yummy dinner on her terrace for the official "opening of the terrace" since the weather was nice! And we got to sample cloudberries with ice cream and cloudberry liqueur along with our meal. we walked through the area for walking/biking/running, and a community garden area where some plots were well underway and others not so much- rhubarb was up and onions and potatoes started.
We were absolutely blessed to be able to spend time with Elise on our trip- she helped us get oriented, and shared her time and her insights, and her hospitality. Our trip to Finland would have been a good one, but her accompanying us in so many ways, offered us a depth of experience we could not have otherwise had. While we had known each other her one semester at LTSG, we both agreed this time was a great extension of that connection now several years ago and I hope to return the favor someday!
And it was great to see Finland when there is sun and grass. My two prior trips were in January. Even now there is not much dark time. At the height of winter, it is never brighter than dusk and in the height of summer, in some places, it is never dark. On a personal note I was glad to know that I had not only packed the right adapter and surge protector, I packed the right neck protector. In Finland, everyone has a neck scarf, either around their neck or tied to a bag- men and women. As someone who only travels with a carryon- neck scarves allow me to believe I am really not wearing that black top again.
Finally, I must say that I asked us all to go out on a bit of a limb and use AirBnB to find a flat, rather than book a hotel. Helsinki is a delightful place. Helsinki is an expensive place for lodging. We probably would not have taken the trip if we had to book two hotel rooms for the week at 200 euro a night. And we were not euro hosteling it.
Our booking exceeded expectations in every way and provided a wonderful base. If you are looking to travel, it is a viable option. And now, having returned on another delightful Finnair flight, it is time to do laundry and write that sermon...

Finnish Adventure-Part 2

After breakfast, we met up with Elise, who I met when she and I were both studying at THE Lutheran Seminary at Gettysburg. She has lived in Helsinki for over 20 years and graciously met us at our flat, bearing maps, and walking tour information, and assistance of all kinds, prepared to share her city with us.
We began by walking to Uspenski Cathedral, taking in its beauty and breathing in the scent of the many beeswax candles lit by visitors. I still think of the long version of the Exultet and thanking God for the bees that make the wax for the candle. But, I digress...It did offer a chance for me to show Alex Old Church Slavonic, an earlier form of the modern Russian she is studying. From the elevation of the cathedral, there was an expansive view of much of the city and harbor area.
From there, Elise showed us around the city, pointing out which ferry terminals go to Stockholm, and various landmarks, including the Diocese House, and buildings for the Lutheran Church in Finland. She took us through the market in the harbor where I learned that the "fish from Lapland!" are actually a specific and tasty fish. We journeyed past some of the oldest buildings, to Senate Square, where we saw the University of Helsinki, the Ministry of the Treasury, and the national Cathedral (Lutheran) where she became a part of the roster of the church. On the way into the cathedral we were interviewed as a part of the EU's money at work, a survey about tourism and spending behaviors. Our interviewer was a student at University from England who hopes to stay in Finland beyond graduation.
We stopped at a local market where I got a lesson in labels, so we can avoid future mixups, and we purchased some Karelian pies and blueberry pastries to have with coffee and tea at her office. The Karelian pies are rye flour pastry and rice concoction- we now mark that off our bucket list! They were tasty!
Over our treats, we talked about the Lutheran church in Finland and how in part its commitment to each parish having a pastor, and also youth workers and deacons, lift up the post World War II importance of helping young men find work to do, as well as caring for youth. It was fascinating to learn about pastors spending the day at places of employment and in schools, providing care, and the thousands of people who are employed by the Church- over 20,000!
We also saw that unlike in this country, the Church has developed faith formation resources that all parishes use, not only for indigenous language speakers, but also various immigrant- Russian, Chinese, Spanish-speaking, etc. And how these same resources are available online. Sparing people from having to create curriculum much less do it in a variety of languages. !! It is entitled "To be a Christian in Finland" and explains not only basics of Christian belief, but also the church in Finland particularly. She and her co-workers are helping provide the faith to youth in wonderful ways!

After our respite, we went on to purchase couple day passes for transit, a SIM card for a prepaid phone Elise is sharing with me, and tickets for the ferry to Estonia. We traveled on the very efficient Metro system where the trains really DO run on time. We also made a pilgrimage to the mecca- not just to Marimekko, but to their outlet! And then followed it up with lunch at a yummy Thai/sushi buffet.
Elise rode the tram with us that circled around the city, providing a good overview we could not get on foot , including the Olympic stadium and botanical gardens, the Russian embassy, and the new Music centre. And she took us to the Kammpi Chapel, a new interdenominational chapel that looks like the hull of an ark, and is intended for be a place of silence. When you enter the worship space, you are enveloped by the curving space of the hull of alderwood circling round, and it is totally silent. As we exited, we noticed that the doors are many inches thick, which literally shuts out noise from outside. Various churches are scheduled to be present and to lead worship on different days at set times, and there is a booklet of information that explains the symbolism and meanings of the church to those unchurched or unsure.
We also then visited the Church on the Rocks, literally hewn from rock, where frequently water runs down the side walls We caught part of a free piano concert before leaving. At then back of the church, In addition to information about the church, there were prayer cards in about 15 different languages- we picked up Russian and Spanish.

Tomorrow, we will be meeting her for worship at the Old Church, and going to their coffee time following, then it is on to Suomelinna by ferry. We also learned that on Mother's Day the groceries are closed and many restaurants are heavily booked. Good to know before hand! We then discovered, thanks to Elise, the location of the underground shopping mall beneath the railway station which is open until late at night. Important since all the others had closed by that time. We had the chance to shop more knowledgeably and then to catch the tram home- it conveniently stops right at our place!
Not feeling like venturing far for dinner, I Googled our island, and we found Wellamo, a very small but tasty place a few blocks from us. Grilled goat cheese on bruschetta and greens with fresh and sundried tomatoes in vinaigrette were perfect!
Then we came back and tested out our sauna- a great reward for a busy but delightful day! We simply cannot say enough how grateful we are to Elise for such a wonderful day, seeing and experiencing in a way we would not have otherwise been able to- it was a real treat! We have also been blessed by sunny days so far-and moderate temperatures in the low 60's. Each morning I can sit in our living room or on our porch and watch the birds tending their nest and give thanks for the beauty of the day.

We have purchased tickets for travel by Tallink to travel on Monday to Talinn, Estonia by ferry for the day.

Blessings for this Lord's Day to you all-give thanks for those who have raised you to be who you are this day!

The Finnish Adventure-Part 1

Thursday morning we began our adventure by being picked up by our van driver to take us to JFK for our flight. Reading, PA people-all I can say is thank God for DeSantis. The driver was amazing which is good because traffic and construction were a bear. Conveniently we are all veteran travelers, so getting through TSA was not too maddening. Finnair is a delightful airline whose flight attendants have uniforms designed by Finnish designers, though unfortunately we did not have the Marimekko plane. ;) Flying on Ascension Day must be the trick because the flight could not have been smoother. Alex and I watched international films and were laughing hysterically at a German film whose English title was "The Breakup Man." We highly recommend it.
When we arrived at Helsinki Vaanta, we caught the Finnair bus to the train station in the city center. Things I did not think about. Knew my cellphone was not international. Forgot that this would include my Wi-Fi hotspot. We had made a plan to meet the owner of our apartment at 11, but being extra cautious, I wanted to confirm by phone before we traveled on. Of course my gmail had that conversation too far down to retrieve without Wi-Fi. I decided to try the pay as you need internet, but Google kept insisting that I verify since I was out of country and all the instructions were in Finnish. Eventually, a couple euros poorer, I suggested we grab a cab.
Now, I really should point out that there is a story about fear and trust here. I had gone out on a limb and booked through AirBnB much to the grimacing of my Beloved who was convinced this would turn out badly. We found a cheery and well fitted out flat in a neighborhood just beyond city centre, about a 10 minute walk. On the map it looked farther away because it is on a separate island. More anxiety. What if we got out there and the owner was not there? I did not have a working cell. And could not check emails. Eventually, we just got the cab and went out. We got out and discovered we were on the sidewalk and the two men chatting out front were not who we were looking for, now about 10 minutes late.
We knew that we were meeting the owner's father. But then we also noticed that while we had an address of 2 Merikamasatu, there was a building 2B and 2C... so Michael walked up to the next building and there was Pauli, a gracious older gentleman, waiting and ready to show us our home. All that fretting for naught. The place is in fact even nicer than hoped, and within walking distance of two markets, the harbor, Uspenski Cathedral, the Market, and the Esplanade, and in short, it's perfect!
Our building and others share a common courtyard, and playground as well as recycling area, and the tram is just outside the door. And perhaps most importantly, we have our own sauna!
After powering down for a couple hours, and showering, we headed out to the market to buy some essentials for breakfast and a snack. And the adventures began. We wanted skim milk. I found milk that was 1% maito, which I assumed was 1% milk. But then how to know, of the other two options which was whole milk and which was not. Mystery solved by reading the nutritional box and figuring out fat content. We decided to get some rolls for breakfast and later discovered they were actually meat pies. But we found yummy yogurt and cheese and grapes, and stevia for my coffee, and what Michael thought was sugar for his.
This morning's discovery is that he really bought something like cream of wheat. If you are on FB you can see the humorous surprise photos.
Yesterday afternoon we walked through the harbor market, with its requisite souvenir sellers and food vendors including places serving up hot food mainly comprised of "Fish from Lapland!" which apparently is a big deal. We watched the cruise ships with tourists to and from Sweden and Russia. And grabbed cappuccino at Signora's, which is a tiny Italian coffeeshop, selling not only coffee but Italian culinary items, ranging from "real" pasta and sauces to a variety of jarred fruits and preserves and treats preserved in limoncello. We are a bit of an oddity, the American family on holiday in Helsinki in May. So we have great conversations about the Finnish economy, and the grousing about how, without the Russians plowing 3 million euro in touism and business, the Finns would be in the tank. And how Russian is replacing Swedish as the second language to Finnish and English. Which of course thrills our Russian student, Alex.
We were blessed with warmer and sunnier weather than anticipated. So we took advantage of the chance to saunter around. We made plans for a nice restaurant the first night and decided on Kareli which was celebrating Asparagus weeks, and also had a varied and interesting menu. We are here for the white asparagus time. I had some grilled as a starter but decided not to have the all asparagus prix fixe menu. Everyone is very helpful and proud to share suggestions about places to visit and how to get there.
Up today is a visit from Elise who I met in seminary. It makes me look so continental to my kids that I "know" someone in Finland.
Tomorrow we plan to attend church and then take the boat out to Suomelinna, and tour the island and fortress. Also on our list are  taking the bus out to Porvoo, and possibly the ferry to Tallinn, Estonia. But then again the circus is in town, and that sounds intriguing.
All in all, it has been 30 years since I have been here, but navigating is not as hard as I expected even for this old brain. More to follow!